The case now looks right at home resting on the base, but it needs something to "top it off." As you can see in the drawing at right, the top
I made for the case consists of a 3A" plywood panel framed on three sides with a wide, solid-wood border. Beneath the top panel I installed some shop-made cove molding.
MAKING THE TOP. I started by cutting the top center panel (CC) to size. Then I applied a thin piece of hardwood edging to the back edge of the plywood panel.
Next cut the top frame front (EE) and two top frame side (FF) pieces to size from 3/4n-thick stock and miter them to fit around the center panel. To reinforce the joints and ease the assembly, I added Vs"-thick centered splines as shown in details 'a' and T>.' A slot cutting bit in the
NOTE: Groove for splinei cut un [J I sJüf rurfer on muter table router table will quickly cut the stopped grooves. And once the Vs" hardboard splines are cut and fit, the top can be assembled. A V4'1 roundover on the bottom edge of the front and sides wraps it up.
THE COVE. With the top assembled and glued in place (I didn't want screws to show inside the upper cabinet), next at bat is the simple cove molding (GG). It serves to create a smooth transition between the wide overhang of the top and the case. Making the cove on the table saw is surprisingly easy and you can turn to page 32 for the short story. Once the cove has been shaped at the saw and sanded smooth, just miter it to length and glue it in place beneath the top.
NOTE: Cove molding made on tJblL' jaV/. ftir rrvdrs fee page 3?
Hardboard i it.'i ii/nrrr? fi^imf tu
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