Materiale da copyrig their baseplates. Most newer hinges—the ones I prefer—can be snapped together and apart without any tools. With other types of concealed hinges, you'll need a screwdriver to separate the parts.
In selecting a hinge for your cabinet, your first decision is the overlay of the door. (See sidebar drawing, page 53.) Hinges are available for full-overlay, half-overlay or inset doors (not shown). Sometimes, the same hinges are used with baseplates of different thicknesses to create different amounts of overlay.
Overlay doors, which completely cover the front edges of the cabinet, arc the least demanding type. If you're a little off on your dimensions, you can usually adjust the appearance by adjusting the hinges, as I'll explain below. I use full-overlay hinges for the end doors and half-overlay hinges where two doors must share the same case divider, as in the middle of a row of cabinets. I use inset doors only on the rarest occasions because their construction and installation demand a high level of precision.
Next, decide on the closing type. A "self-closing" hinge has a built-in spring mechanism that pulls the door shut when it's within 15° of closing so you don't need door catches. Self-closing hinges arc the ones I use most often. If a self-closing door snaps shut with too much force, you can substitute a slightly less expensive, "free-swinging" hinge.
Free-swinging hinges exert no closing force, so you'll need catches to keep the door closed. If you want that sleek, "no-handle" appearance, use touch latches in conjunction with this type of hinge.
Opening angle is your next decision. Concealed hinges are available in a range of swing angles from 95° to 170°. The opening angle is very important and depends on the relative position of your cabinet in the room or in a line of cabinets. If the cabinet is to be installed in a corner, a 95° or 100° hinge is all you need. Otherwise, I normally specify 125° hinges for wall cabinets and 165° hinges for base cabinets.
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