Custom Fit Chisel Rack

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Chisel Rack

After routing an ogee profile on the edge, use a dowel wrapped in sandpaper to sand the holes.

Angle miter gauge to 6°

Forstner bit

Waste

SECTION VIEW

Vs'-dia. -Forstner bit

Lightly score the holes

- -Access slot cut on table saw

-Blade at 90"

Top of holder

First, "Score." Start the tapered hole by scoring the top surface with a Forstner bit.

Now, a Through Hole. Use the scored outline to center a smaller through hole.

A Tapered Hole. Next, I tilted the scroll saw table and cut around the scored hole.

Finally, a Tapered Slot. Finish the job at the table saw by cutting a tapered slot into each hole.

Chisel Storage Ideas

upper panel m upper center stile

lower center stile

WxW stopped chamfer bead molding n bTK

lower stile j panel

V NOTE: Bead molding ^-prj is cut to fit after frame is assembled note: Rout stopped chamfer after assembling back frame (refer to page 31)

note: Identical

SIDE SECTION VIEW

Bead molding

TOP SECTION VIEW

i fop and bottom have Ogee with fillet profile on all edges

SIDE SECTION VIEW

At this point, the tool chest is really taking shape, but there are a few important parts to add. But it's all pretty straightforward work.

THE BACK. First you need to put a back on the case. As you can see above, the frame and panel back mirrors the construction of the doors. The frame is built with stub tenon and groove joinery using curly and birdseye maple. And then once assembled, it's fitted to the case by cutting grooves in the stiles that mate with the tongues on the case sides.

BEAD MOLDING. One of my favorite details on this project is the bead molding that frames the panels. And now is the time to make it and and add it to both the back frame and the two doors.

You'll find details on making this small molding on page 31. And with the bead molding in hand, you simply miter pieces to fit the openings and glue it to the frames.

TOP AND BOfTTOM. Now, only a top and bottom for the chest are missing. As you can see above, these are identical panels glued up from Vz'-thick curly maple stock. I routed an ogee with fillet on all the edges and then glued the panels to the case with w molded edges facing one another. With the doors in place, you should have an even overhang all around.

FINISH UP. After installing the two handles, I carried the chest to the finishing room. Here I applied a grain-popping water-based dye, followed by a coat of wiping varnish and several coats of water-based finish. And while the finish was drying, I contemplated how I would fill up my new tool chest. EB

V x 51/2" - 96" Hard Maple (2 Boards @ 3.7 Bd. Ft)

also needed: 48"x 48"- V4 Maple Plywood also needed: 48"x 48"- V4 Maple Plywood note: Bead molding (MM) is 72" rough length, resawrt and ripped to size.

note: Parts are planed to thickness from W-thick stock

LL ll

V x 51/2" - 96" Hard Maple (2 Boards @ 3.7 Bd. Ft)

LL ll

Cutting Diagram ti Door Storage Options

While working on this project, I couldn't help but think of ail the different options for putting it to use — both for storing tools as well as other personal treasures. A couple of ideas are shown in the drawings at right.

How about a stylish jewelry chest? The shallow drawers are perfect. And adding a leather-lined back panel to the doors provides a place for pendants and necklaces.

And if tools are your choice, a similar modification will provide custom hanging storage for the ones you want close at hand. You'll find all the details on adding door panels for hanging storage at our website.

Necklaces hang from brass pegs

NOTE: Thin back panel screwed to door creates more versatile storage options

Panel is 14" plywood covered with leather

Necklaces hang from brass pegs

NOTE: Thin back panel screwed to door creates more versatile storage options

Panel is trimmed in bead molding

NOTE: Door storage panels can be added after project is complete

Panel is trimmed in bead molding

NOTE: Door storage panels can be added after project is complete

Panel can accommodate a variety of custom tool holders

Panel is 14" plywood covered with leather

To find additional information on adding door storage panels to the chest, go to: Woodsmith.com

To find additional information on adding door storage panels to the chest, go to: Woodsmith.com

Materials & Supplies

B Horizontal Dividers (4)

C Upper Vertical Dividers (2)

D Lower Vertical Divider (1)

E Drawer Runners (22)

F Small Drawer Fronts (4)

G Upper Small Drawer Sides (4)

H Upper Small Drawer Backs (2)

I Upper Small Drawer Bottoms (2)

J Center Drawer Front (1)

K Center Drawer Sides (2)

L Center Drawer Back (1)

M Center Drawer Bottom (1)

N Lower Small Drawer Sides (4)

O Lower Small Drawer Backs (2)

P Lower Small Drawer Bottoms (2)

Q Medium Drawer Fronts (4)

R Medium Drawer Sides (8)

S Medium Drawer Backs (4)

T Medium Drawer Bottoms (4)

U Large Drawer Fronts (2)

V Large Drawer Sides (4) W Large Drawer Backs (2)

X Large Drawer Bottoms (2)

5/b X 9% - 139/fs % x 9 '/2- 22?/s 'è x 9'/; - 3"/is V2 x 9% - 4"/;s % x % - 9% V2x 1&-7 y2 x 1 Vi - 9% % X 1 - 6% 'U ply. - 9'/,e x 6% }h x 3'/)s - 7 V2 x 3'/, s - 9% 'à x 2% - 6% y4 ply. - 9'/)s X 6% '¿x 1'/2-9'/s '/2xv/2-7 % ply. - 8% x 6%

'¿x 2-9(4 '6x2-10%; 'U ply. - 8% x 10j/)6 '/2 x 2 - 22

x 2 - 9 '4 V2 x 2 - 22 V4 Vply. -83/4x215/s 5/sx2-137/,6 5/sx2-89/T6

AA Door Upper Center Stiles (2) BB Door Lower Center Stiles (2) CC Door Upper Panels (4) DD Door Lower Panels (4) EE Door Side Stiles (4) FF Chisel Racks (2) 6G Back Stiles (2) HH Back Rails (3) I! Back Upper Center Stiles (2) JJ Back Lower Center Stiles (2) KK Back Upper Panels (3) LL Back Lower Panels (3) MM Bead Molding (4) NN Case Top/Bottom (2)

(2) 5/g"-dia. Brass Knobs/Escutcheon

(4) V Magnet Cups

(4)J4"-dia, Magnet Washers

(44) #6 x V2n Ph Woodscrews

(44) #6 Flat Washers

(4) #8 x 1V Brass Fh Woodscrews

5/s x 2 - 3% % x 2 - 5"/j6 % x 3% • VU Va x 35/g - 5 "/re % X 2 '/s - 13 7/t6 % x 7 V 103/î6 5/s x 2 - 139/j6 % x 2 - 203/s s/gx2-3'/4

Chisel Rack

A well-tuned band saw will help you make straight, square, and consistent cuts even when resawing stock into thin pieces.

Flatten Barrel Cuts

One common resawing problem is known as a barrel cut. It's a rounded cut that leaves a concave and a convex face on the sides, as shown in the left illustration below. Fortunately, it's an easy problem to fix.

The first thing to do is check blade tension. Instead of relying on your saw's tension indicator (which is seldom accurate), just push the blade with your finger, as shown below. It shouldn't move more than V4".

The next thing to do is make sure the upper blade guide assembly is as close to the workpiece as possible. I like to keep it about W above the cut. This way, the blade is less likely to deflect inside the workpiece.

A well-tuned band saw will help you make straight, square, and consistent cuts even when resawing stock into thin pieces.

Resawing on the band saw seems like a simple, straightforward technique on the surface — you simply stand the work-piece on edge and run it through the saw. But there's more to it than that. If your saw isn't set up properly, there are a few problems that will almost certainly pop up and make getting the results you want a challenge. Here are some easy fixes to a few of the most common problems. They'll get you on your way to successful resawing.

Success begins with the correct blade. Choose a 4-TPf blade with deep gullets for chip removai.

THE RIGHT BLADE. The first step toward getting a good cut is choosing the right blade for resawing. For most 14" band saws, a V2", 4-TFI, hook-toothed blade (like the one shown in the lower left photo) is the right answer.

A BETTER FENCE. After you've installed the right blade, you'll also want to add an auxiliary fence — one that's tall enough to support wide stock. Then it's usuaBy just a matter of fine-tuning the rest of your saw to get accurate cuts.

Square Up Angled Cuts

Another problem is keeping the cut pieces square. That is, making sure the thickness is consistent from top ^ to bottom, and not wedge-shaped, as in the left illustration below. If the pieces aren't even, your stock wasn't square to the blade as you made tire cut. This is normally caused by the table and fence not being perpendicular to the blade.

The first thing to do is take a look at both the upper and lower blade guides. If they're not properly aligned, as in the illustration below, they can force the blade out of square. You can set the guide blocks by loosening the screws that hold them and adjust as needed.

Finally, you'll need to pull out a square and adjust the table to make sure it's set 90° to the blade. (Usually there are adjustment mechanisms below the table and a set screw stop.) Then check the fence.

Prevent Blade Drift

A frequent source of frustration when resawing is blade drift. Even when everything else is set up properly, the blade can still wander off the cut line. This is caused by the set of the blade and how fiat it sits on the tire. Fortunately, there's an easy solution to this problem.

All you need to do is determine the blade drift angle and then adjust the fence to match it.

To do this, just dra w a line on the face of a board and make a straight cut, as shown in the drawing at right. When you get about halfway through the cut, turn the saw off and leave the board in position.

Now, mark the angle that produced a straight cut on the table. Then, all you need to do is set the fence parallel to the line and the saw will track straight on the mark.

Blade

r-

Not enough set creates blade friction

SECTION VIEW

L

SECTION VIEW

Blade drift creates friction at heel of blade

Blade drift, discussed above, can also cause wood to bum. The heel of the blade can rub on one side of the cut (lower drawing). Compensating for drift solves the problem. ¡0

Eliminate Burn Marks

Bum marks are usually the result of a dull blade that needs to be replaced. But sometimes pitch on the blade will cause a burn, too. If that's the case, a good cleaning is all that's needed.

You can also get burning from a blade without enough set (the alternating outward bending of the teeth). Too little set will cause burning by the friction created when the steel band behind the teeth rubs on the face of the freshly cut board, as shown in the top illustration at right. The only solution here is to replace the blade.

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