HowTo Build the Bending Form

FIRST. Align leg template and trace both edges

BENDING FORM BLANK

(need two)

IVarte

Attach blanks and flush trim the edge of top blank

30'A ' SECOND: Transfer final leg length marts to blank

THIRD: Cut and sand to tines on blank

Start With the Template. Trace the shape of the template onto a piece of3// MDF. Cut out both pieces of the form, staying on the waste side of the cut. Then sand the edges smooth.

Add a Second Layer. Cut out a second piece of MDF and attach it to the first layer with glue and screws. Then, with a flush-trim bit in the router, trim the pieces to match.

CLEANING UP. You'll need to give the glue a full day to cure before removing the leg from the bending form. After gluing up the remaining three legs, you can break out a scraper and remove the squeeze-out. I also like to follow up with a good sanding to remove as much of the hardened glue as possible. Then just flatten one edge of each leg at the jointer and run the other side through your planer. Plane the leg to a final width of iVs".

SQUARE THE ENDS. Now you're ready to trim the ends of the legs parallel. This way, they'll sit flat on the floor and also create a flat surface for the top of the table. The bending form comes in handy for making these cuts. Just remove the inside form and attach it to an auxiliary fence on your miter gauge, as shown in Fig. 6. Then you can clamp the leg in position on the form and make the squaring cuts on each end.

fLATTEN ONE FACE. With the legs cut to length, the next step is to create a flat spot on the inside face of each leg for a center block that will be added later. This will allow you to assemble die legs into a solid base.

To do this, remove the form from the miter gauge and place the flat edge against the rip fence (Fig. 7). Hold the leg in position with spring clamps, well out of the way of the table saw blade. For this cut, I carefully adjusted the rip fence to just barely shave off the outside edge of the curve on each leg (Fig. 7a).

Plane blank to final width

Use scraper to remove excess glue on leg blank

Mark bottom ) side o f leg 'OA for reference

Attach bending jig to auxiliary fence on miter gauge to cut leg blank to final length ,

Trim flat spot on blank

Reclamp blank ~ to trim outer edge , safely __j

FINISHING TOUCHES. To complete the ing the flattened face. Then I sanded legs, I moved to the router table the outside tip of the bottom of each and "softened" the edges using a leg to match the round profile. Now,

Va" roundover bit. I rounded both just give the pieces a final sanding the inside and outside edges, avoid- and they're ready to assemble.

dia dowel

Cut upper back form to prevent interference with dowels

FIRST: Attach form to base with screws i second:

Drill dowel holes and clamp holes podoq

BENDING JIG BASE PLATE

THIRD: Trim remainder of jig to make clamping __— easier——

Add a Base. Mount the inside form to a base using screws. Then drill a Complete the Form. Cut the outside part of the form to series of 1 V/'-dia. holes for clamps. Also add two 3U"-dia. holes for the a uniform width to provide even clamping pressure. Then dowels. Trim the corners to make it easier to tighten the clamps. spray on a coat of finish and wax both parts of the form.

-Inlay groove

With the legs complete, the next step is making the top. You'll need to , have it ready before joining the legs so you can use it to keep the assembly square.

A ROUND TABLfTOP. As you can see in the illustration at right, the top is glued up from narrower boards. It's a pretty straightforward assembly, but you'U want to take the time to align your stock for the best grain match. You may also want to use cauls to keep the boards flat.

After you've smoothed and sanded the blank, you're ready to cut the top to size. To do this, I used a router and trammel. This allowed me to cut the circle and add a shallow groove for the inlay using the same setup just by adjusting the radius of the cut. You can see how I did this on the next page.

The last step is to glue the legs together to form the base. The box at the bottom of the page shows an easy way to assemble the base and keep it aligned and square.

Now just add a finish and the table is sure to find a good home next to your favorite chair. ESS

24 (rough)

24 (rough)

Top glued up from four individual boards note:

Level and sand blank before cutting top to size note:

Center block is glued up from two pieces of

9As"~ thick stock

Use center block to attach legs center block

-Inlay groove

Center block glued to fíats , of tegs straightedge to the bench top to use and counterbore holes in the ends, as a flat reference for the ends of the as shown in detail 'a.' Then attach legs. Then it's just a ma tter of gluing the assembly with screws and use the center block in place and clamp- the tabletop to keep things square ing the assembly. After it's dry, drill as you add the remaining legs.

The key to successfully assembling the base is to glue up the first two pieces flat and square. You can do this by laying two legs on your workbench and clamping a

Clamp straightedge to bench __.

note:

Attach legs with screws in counterbored holes woodscrew

■ Keep legs flat on bench and against straightedge during glueup

SIDE SECTION VIEW

Woodsmith

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Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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