I happened to have some '/2-in. maple plywood on hand, so I used that for the drawer boxes, joining the corners with a shaper-made lock-rabbet joint. Dividers of VWn. plywood create interior compartments to help organize the tools and to reduce their shifting about as I move the cart around the shop. Remembering how the sliding trays of traditional chests made such efficient use of limited space, I added such a tray in one of the deeper drawers (see the photo on p. 70), and I use it to hold my collection of files. I decided to line some drawers with felt to reduce the tendency of certain tools to roll about, as well as to protect their cutting edges.
To avoid using protruding pull hardware (which tends to catch on work aprons), I cut finger grips into the3/»-in. cherry drawer faces. I cut them considerably wider than a single hand width, which make the grasps easy to find by touch alone.
1 decided to go with 3/t-in. thick hard maple for the cart's table, edge-gluing up several boards to reach the required width. While I could have used laminate-covered plywood, I like the look and feel of solid wood. Finished in shellac or polyurethane, the hardwood surface would be just as slick as plastic laminate when pressed into use as an outfeed table for the table saw.
To protect the top, sides, and drawer faces of the cart from impact and from the occasional drippings of finish materials and solvents, I applied several coats of polyurethane. Except for the underside of the table surface, I left the interior of the cart unfinished.
To cut the slots for biscuits in the miter faces, index the machine base to the marked surface of the component. Photo by Craig Wester.
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