Drawer Detail

Clearance hole for #4 screw with V4-in. by Vs-in. deep countersink, three places

Brass bushing % in. dia. by % in. deep, (two places)

Panel in. thick-rabbeted into frame

Splines 1V4 in. by 1V2 in. by Ve in. (four places)

Note: Rear panel has 'A in. floating panel inserted in groove in frame inside perimeter.

1. Rip edgings and ends from 3/4-in. stock.

3. Flip edgings to bottom and glue in place.

Reverse heart orientation.

Side grain to side grain

After cutting the slots in the two vertical dividers to receive the drawer guides, rabbet the edges of the two horizontal partitions to fit the grooves in the carcase pieces. Then cut shallow dadoes to accept the vertical dividers. Now go on to attach the drawer guides to these vertical dividers with screws-countersunk so they don't interfere with drawer sides and slotted to allow the divider to move if it swells or shrinks.

Now you can join the partitions to one another, clamping them up square before drilling the pilot holes for the assembly screws. Brace the assembly square with a stick tacked diagonally across the case, test-fitting the three small drawers between the vertical dividers. (Note that it is easier to make adjustments to the guides before the partition assembly is permanently installed into the case.)

After double-checking that the front and rear rails are cut to the same length (and to the size shown on your rendering), cut the sliding dovetails on the router table (see the top photo on p. 41). Use the same bit that cut the receiving grooves in the side panels. Note that the sliding dovetails are offset from the centerline of the rail toward the inside of the case—a configuration that strengthens the outside corner of the side panel. Next cut a slot in the front rail and a rabbet in the back rail to receive the fophomonh) J&fftlW) board. While the rails are free—and thus easy to hold in a vise—make the mortise for the lid lock mechanism in the front rail, the clearance hole for the lock key, and the relief mortise for the lock escutcheon. Now take the front rail to the drill press to drill the holes for the pair of front-panel lock assemblies. Finally, make the relief mortises for the butt hinge leaves on the back rail.

Making the front and rear panels

Make up the drop-down front panel (see the drawing above left) and the fixed rear panels of the case, cutting the frame-and-pancl members slightly overlong so you can later trim them to fit the dry-assembled case perfectly. Use splines both to join the butts of the rails and stiles and to attach the flush-front panel to its frame. Dado the inner edge of the frame of the rear panel to receive its thin recessed panel. Flaving glued up the frames—being careful to get them square and to keep glue off the panels so they will float freely in their frames—set them ipide to dry. Later, sand the joints of the inrr.es flush.

| In the next step, dry-assemble the case Bem^ careful to clamp it square) so you «it. cut and trim the front and rear panel ■iKmblies to size. Then remove the back ■■td and cut the slots for the splines ■hit will attach this panel to the case. Ctf the tongue in the bottom rail of the Ebb: panel to fit in the groove you made ndkrr in the bottom board. Finally, lay iaatan J drill for the brass inserts that KB receive the locking pins.

ring up the top lid ft zi:r. a thick lid without the weight, I acski up the thickness with edgings (see bottom drawing on the facing page). Epikie the change in grain at the stion joint, cut the edgings and l«sds from the top board stock (which is Br- thick), being careful to mark the jijfcu'^ to show their original position in —: be ard. Now plane the board with the i and edgings removed down to Vi in. Having the cutoffs at their original r* raj, and cut it to its approximate Baished width and length. (To ensure | lof the lid will fit the case, make the lid [sightly oversize at this stage—you will it to its finished width and length-Is in. by 263/-« in.— later.) Next, cut the f strips to length and glue them to the side of the lid, filling in between the end-grain cutoffs. To make a [gfcasmg grain pattern, you can flip over : er.d cuts so the growth rings form an «lirtical pattern.

:ng up the drawers

I1) drawers call for a lot of joints, so them ef ficiently, either by routing ils using a dovetail jig with a hand-router or cutting finger joints with a ide jig on the table saw (see the :r on p. 88). Winter cut the dovetails at the back of the box with a shop-made router jig

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