Info

Box side symbols, check them off the cut list. Be sure to make up extra lengths of stock for the frame work: You'll need scrap when setting up to cut the mortise-and-tenon and bridle joints.

Making up the box

Sort out the various components of the box and then cut the parts to their final length as shown on the full-size rendering. (Exceptions are the box sides and ends: Cut these about % in. oversize, and trim them to their exact size after you have dovetailed them together at their corners.) To cut the dovetails, hold the pieces against the rendering and mark the location of the base line of the pins and tails. Remember to hold the stock so that it extends evenly past the finished size line at either end ('/i* in., assuming the pieces were cut '/sin. overlong). Extend the line around the board with a try square. Now cut the tails in the side boards and use them as templates for the pins in the end boards. After cutting the pins, dry-fit the box; when you are happy with the joinery, finish-sand the interior surfaces and glue up the box. Be sure it sits square and flat. Don't worn,' about the cutout for the drawer or the installation of the bottom boards—you'll take care of these later. But take the time now to finish all the interior components and the inside faces of the box while you can still get at them easily.

Making up the surround frame

Here's where you'll be glad you took the time to make that full-size drawing. To establish the exact locations of the shoulders of the bridle joints on the surround-frame components (see the

Bridle-Joint Layout

drawing above), hold each part against the rendering and mark the shoulders of each joint with a penciled V tick mark. On the ends to be tenoned, extend the shoulder line around the stock with a sharp knife. Then mark the sides of the tenon with a marking gauge—set the gauge's points to the joint lines drawn on the rendering. Note that the tenons protrude past the corner post—and that the post protrudes past the top of the cross brace—by V32 in. when the joint is finally assembled. Mark the waste portions of the joint with an X. In a similiar fashion, lay out the cutlines of the mortises. To keep the parts oriented properly, assign numbers to the joints and write these on the stock.

Cut the mortises in the posts to the scribe line (either by hand or using a bandsaw or table saw). In most cases, you will need to use a chisel to square and flatten the bottom of the cut. Cut the tenons in the cross braces and the bottom of the posts and trim them precisely to the layout lines with a chisel. Dry-fit and adjust the surfaces of the tenon cheeks and the shoulder cuts until you achieve a tight, square joint between the top cross brace and the posts. But don't glue up these joints yet. Instead, continue by laying out and cutting the slot in the posts that allows the frame to slip over the box ends. Now dry-assemble the frame pieces by clamping the joints temporarily together and slipping the assembly over the box. Hold the bottom of the posts to the longitudinal frame pieces to get an accurate layout of the bridle joint you will make here. In a similar fashion, lay the carry bar on the frame and mark where it crosses the

C -clamps temporarily hold frame together.

Mark location of mortises on top of rail.

Box assembly

Mark location of mortise shoulder on rail.

Longitudinal bottom rails

Carry handle

Box assembly

Mark shoulders of tenons on carry handle (where handle crosses cross brace).

Mark location of mortise shoulder on rail.

Carry handle

Frame-Joint Layout

C -clamps temporarily hold frame together.

Mark location of mortises on top of rail.

Longitudinal bottom rails

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