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Dovetailed drawers have cut-out finger pulls. Photo by Greg Radley.

Making the trestle

Cut the pieces of the trestle to rough dimensions and then surface-plane and joint them to size. Leave the parts long for now. Lay out the through mortises for the two bottom rails (the mortises should be '/s in. less than the width and thickness of the rails, requiring the tenon to have a '/s-in. shoulder.) Cut out the mortises with cither a milling machine or a drill bit followed by a hand chisel. Then cut the rails to length—plus Vs in. to allow a Win. protrusion at either end—and lay out and cut the tenons. Trim the tenons with a chisel until you get a smooth, tight fit into the mortises. Make the kerf for the wedges.

Make the mortises in the two foot rails for the base of the four posts and then make the tenons in the posts to fit. Similarly, make the mortise-and-tenon joints for the two top supports. Lay out and cut the lap joints for the center top rail and the cross support. A crosscut box on the table saw makes these cuts go quickly and accurately.

Now dry-fit the entire trestle assembly. There will undoubtably be much trimming to do to get all the fits tight and the parts correctly aligned. When you are satisfied, go for the glue. First, however, radius all the sharp edges with a router fitted with a '/s-in. roundover bit and then sand the surfaces smooth. After final assembly, drive wedges into the through tenons and to pin the blind mortise-and-tenon joints. Apply the finish.

Final assembly

Fit your tools to the upper case, playing with the layout to take the best advantage of the available space without making the tools cumbersome to remove. Holders can be made in various ways. For some, trace the outline of the tool on the stock and cut out the shape to fit; for others, slot a length of stock. Install the holders with screws and add rotating cleats where appropriate to secure the tools in place. Sometimes it takes a little imagination to come up with just the right holding strategy' for a particular tool; some possible solutions are shown in the bottom drawing on the facing page.

With the upper cabinet on its back, install the piano hinges to both outside edges of the case-to get a close, dust-proof fit between the doors and the case, rout in a long mortise in which to recess the hinge. Prop the doors in position and screw the hinge to them. Install European-type cup hinges to the back of the utility cabinet doors (this requires drilling a 35mm hole in the back of the stiles) and the hinge plates to the inside walls of the case. As shown in the top drawings on the facing page, install elbow catches at the bottom of the upper doors and, for the lower doors, cut a small recess in the door frame where it joins the panel—just enough to get your fingertips in.

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