Step 3: Without changing the compass setting, swing arcs from points B and Z to locate Point C. In similar fashion, lay out the three remaining points of the hexagon.
Step 4: Connect the facet points with a straightedge.
Copy the hexagonal end pattern onto the stock. Photo by Craig Wester.
Making the hexagonal end pieces Make up a pattern for the end pieces of the box from your drawing, and affix it to the stock with double-stick tape. (I drew the full-scale end view on a piece of poster board and cut it out using a razor blade and a metal straightedge.) After copying the pattern onto the stock (see the photo above), cut the pieces to the outside of the lines on the bandsaw. To ensure that both end pieces are exactly the same, temporarily join them together with double-stick tape; then, holding them in a vise, plane the facet faces to the layout lines (see the top photo on the facing page). As you plane, frequently check the size of the facets with a small scrap of wood cut to the cross-sectional shape of a side segment (see the bottom photo on the facing page). Continue trimming until all the facets are the same length. Don't worry if the facets come out slightly shorter than the section of scrap in order to be equal—you will cut the segments to fit.
With the end patterns temporarily taped together, plane the facets (left), checking frequently against a test block (below). Photo by Craig Wester.
Lay out and cut the six side segments of the box to rough width and length. (Note that the finished length is simply the overall length of the box.) Rip-cut a 30° angle into one edge of each segment on the table saw, and plane this edge-smooth with a hand jointer plane set upside down in a vise. To guard against the joints opening up should the wood warp slightly in drying conditions, orient the boards heart side out. To ensure accuracy, rig up a fence at a 30° angle to the sole of the jointer plane to support the stock at the exact angle (see the top photo on p. 166).
After planing one edge, set the table-saw fence to rip-cut (at 30°) the other edge of each board to its finished width (take the measurement from your finished end pieces). Add at least V32 in.
Joint the edge of the side segments at an angle of 30°. using a hand jointer plane held upside-down in a vise (above). An angled fence supports the workpiece at a 30° angle. Photo by Craig Wester.
Wedges hold the end pieces in position as the side and end pieces are assembled (right) to form a hexagonal box. Photo by Craig Wester.
to the width to allow for planing. Use hold-downs to keep the board tight to the rip fence. Then plane the roughsawn edge until the board precisely fits the facet on the end piece. Continue with all six segments.
Cut out the two lid hold-down strips (you can use scrap from the side segment stock), angle-cutting each edge at 30°. Cut the strips to length, that is, the length of the side segments less the thickness of the two hexagonal end pieces. Pick out two side segments and glue and tack the strips flush to one edge. Inset the strip in from the edge by the thickness of the end piece.
To assemble the segments into a hexagonal box, you'll need to make a jig to hold the end pieces upright and parallel to one another. Note in the photo below left how I used a simple wedge arrangement to lock the end pieces in position on the table of the jig. Using glue and brass escutcheon pins or copper tacks, attach the three fixed side segments to their facets on the end pieces, rotating the assembly in the jig so the board being hammered in place is on top. Apply glue along the edges of the boards also; hold these two joints together while the glue dries with a band clamp. When the glue is dry, remove the clamp and check the fit of the remaining three fold-out lid segments. Plane their edges if necessary to create a tight fit.
Next, cut the lid to cover the bottom well of the box. Cut the side edges of the lid to 30°. Trim the edges with a plane until the lid sits flush to the top edge of the fixed side segments. Cut finger holes with a 1V* -in. drill bit; round over the sharp edges of the hole with a router fitted with a '/s-in. roundover bit. If you
ant, glue dividers into the well to create I compartments. Finally, apply finish > all the wood surfaces. I used a tratingoil finish.
Begin the leather work by cutting strips of leather to hold chisels or other small ■tools in place under the fold-out lid segments. An effective way to do this is to lay the tools in position under the leather strip as you hammer in the tacks. I use a small cross peen hammer to get in • ght between the tools.
To create the pair of closure straps, .it out two 1 '/t-in. wide by 32-in. long ips of leather. Install the male end of a ap catch to one end of each strip, inning 1 in. down from the top edge "one bottom segment, tack the strips ss the three bottom segments. Lay at the three fold-out segments side by >:de next to the box and tack the strips across these as well. Now close the box by folding up these last three segments. Mark the location of the snap catch on each strap (there will be an inch or so of overhang) and install the female part of the catch. All that's left now is for you to install your tools.
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There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.