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F / Stanley Honing (inkle Tlie Stanley s body is made of steel nearly Vk" thick with a cast clamp jaw. It has twt) rollers, side by side, for an effective roller width of 1 W[ without tending to dra^, as a single, wide roller may. Particularly effective for holding very short tools (like s|x>keshave blades). Made in England San 35%. Limit om Honing

GMpm Rtwtbr

23M01.02 Honing Guide $ 15.95

When you purefwse anything else from us. just add this item number to your order to obtain tlx special price shown. A trtdy gnat value-

To Order Call 800-221-2942 or fax 800-566-9525 Or Visit us at

Craig Satterlcc Marietta, Georgia

hold the knife. A handsaw cuts a kerf about ihe right thickness. Insert the knife into the kerf and bind with tape.

Bevel the knife with a grinder or belt sander. Use a fine wheel or belt. A round profile is created by rotating the dowel on the tool rest Grind past the old double bevel until the new bevel intersects with the side you flattened, and is round from side to side.

The angle of the bevel should be about 30 degrees. Use a light touch when grinding this thin piece of steel, so you don't overheat it and draw the temper out. Take it out of the holder and remove its wire edge on the sandpaper.

Tom Caspar AW Associate Editor

Cutting Gauge Tune-Up

You'll have to change the profile of the knife from pointed to round. A cutting edge that is a single point dulls quickly. A round edge will stay sharp longer because there's more cutting surface. Also, change the double bevel to a single bevel. A single bevel facing the gauge head pulls the head tight to the edge of the wood.

Remove the knife from the stock of the gauge. If the wedge-that holds the knife is tight, pound it out from the bottom with a hammer and punch. Then flatten one side of the knife on a piece of 220-grit sandpaper. Next, make a holder from a length of 3/8-in.-dia. dowel rod. Saw a 1 -m.-long kerf in the end of the dowel to

Q« I bought a new marking gauge to cut across the grain when I lay out tenon shoulders and dovetails.The problem is, it doesn't make a clean cut. All I get is a raggedy line. How can I sharpen the tiny cutting knife to make it work better?

Craig Satterlcc Marietta, Georgia

A« Marking gauges come in two different styles. One with a nee-dle-like pin works best when following the grain of a board. This is the kind to us? when laying out the two sides of a mortise, for example.

The style you bought has a knife in it instead of a pin, and is sometimes called a cutting gauge. Its meant to be used across the grain, as you describe. It should make a cut as clean as one made by a razor blade. Here's how to fix yours:

Jointing by Hand

Q# I enjoy working with hand tools, but I'm having a hard time planing edges of boards straight and square. I don't want to add a fence to my plane. Isn't there another way to make jointing easier?

John Brodt, Springfield. Illinois

A« You can build a "shooting board" to plane perfect edge joints. Because it won't warp, a base made of narrow glued-up strips is better than one made of solid wood. Plywood or MDF will work, too. The longer the plane, the better the shooting board will work A sharp, well-tuned, #7 jointer plane is ideal.

The planes body doesn't have to be perfectly square. Let's say you are jointing two boards. Plane the edge of the first one with its face up. Plane the second board with its face down. When you butt the two boards together, any errors in the angle of the edges will cancel out, resulting in a fiat top.

Here's how to plane an edge straight. The idea is to first make it slightly concave, then straighten it out. Your first strokes should start and stop one inch shy of each end When the plane stops taking shavings, you have created a slightly concave edge. Then take a few passes the full length of the board, making one continuous shaving. The trick is to keep the sole of the plane flat against the board at the beginning and end of the stroke. Check with a long straightedge.

Peter Korn

Center For Furniture Craftsmanship Rockport, Maine

Source: Plastic strip is available at Woodcraft Supply (800) 225-1153; $ 17.50 for 3 in. x 10-1 (2 ft. roll, item # 16L65.

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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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