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Praise for Lohr
As a novicc woodworker and an aficionado of the furniture of chc Arts & Crafts period, I was immediately struck by the beauty of the settle, or couch, made by Jeff Lohr. Although the Sticklcy and Greene & Greene influences are both apparent, Mr. Lohr's interpretation has succeeded in bringing to the style a unique and fresh perspective.
I'm wondering—would american woodworker consider doing an article on this remarkable piece of furniture?
Jim Hatton American Embassy, Fiji
Sounds like a good idea. Stay tuned to future issues. —Eds.
Splines of Walnut, not Ebony
I was very pleased to have one of my pieces pictured in your magazine (see AW #39). Tolpin's article on proud joinery was very good and I believe my love seat added some interest. However, the caption describing my piece contains a serious error that I'd like to correct. It referred to ebony splines used to accent certain joints. The splines are walnut, not ebony.
This correction may seem unimportant to some; but it's very important to me. Like most of the wood that goes into my furniture, the walnut splines came from trees that I cut myself and had milled locally. I use no tropical exotic woods of any kind, and especially would never use ebony as I believe it to be quite endangered. The focus of my work over the last 10 years has been on the exclusive use of local, sustained-yield hardwoods.
Jeffrey D. Lohr Schwcnksvillc, PA
Wider Stance for Clamp Rack
I am 78 years old (retired surgeon) and just completed the Roll Around Clamp Rack featured in your August issue (AW
#39, page 88). I found the rack to be top heavy, even with 6-in.-dia. casters. I increased the base width from 24 in. to 33 in. and moved the casters out for stability. This solved the problem. I enjoy your magazine very much.
For readers who are interested in building kaleidoscopes (see AW #40), the following tips might be useful. I developed these techniques while building several kaleidoscopes. Keep up the good world •To avoid damage to the barrel during glue-up, use masking tape wound tightly instead of hose clamps. Glue that squeezes out can be sanded off easily. •To turn the barrel, mount it on a slightly tapered mandrel made from a scrap 1x2 and mounted between the spur drive and cup center. •Use plastic window glazing material instead of glass for discs in the objective chamber. These discs can be easily turned on the lathe using my "Tech Tip," which appears in this issue. (See page 26.) To get the frosted disc, just sand one surface.
•To improve the mirrors' edge-to-edge fit (and minimize the line seen), sand each mirror's edge with 400-grit wet-or-dry paper after cutting. Wet the sandpaper for best results.
•Hold the mirrors in place by pushing small pieces of plastic foam into the space between the mirror assembly and the barrel. The mirror assembly can be a very loose fit and still be held securely.
Bill Boyd Salem, SC
I really enjoyed the article in issue #39 about 80-year-old Judith Hughes, a furniture maker in England. It is good to see that a woman has been successful in the trade. 1 also enjoyed the included pictures of her work. Her craftsmanship is beautiful. If you find any more women furniture makers, please include them in your magazine. We do exist!
Kristina McKcown Laramie, WY
We appreciate the review of our Elmer's Weather-Tite Wood Glue (AW #39. page 76); however, we'd like to request a correction due to recently obtained information.
Re-testing of Weather-Tite has shown that it is water-resistant; but the product does not meet the requirements of ANSI Type II standards. The water resistance of our product is supported by other tests including ongoing weather tests with uncoatcd birdhouses constructed with Weather-Tite.
Vincent Salerno Borden Home &C Professional Products
Don't Break the Blade f
In your article on turning stack-laminated bowls (AW #39), Rude Osolnik advises cutting the laminate rings on the handsaw. To avoid cutting through each ring, he breaks the handsaw blade, inserts it through a drilled hole along the cut line, makes the cut, and re-breaks the blade.
I have found it possible to cut rings using a portable jigsaw. The cut is started in a predrilled hole, as above. While the bandsaw cuts faster, both techniques probably take about the same time if you factor in the work of silver-soldering and re-mounting the bandsaw blade. I've cut mahogany rings up to 2 in. thick with my jigsaw.
Peter Schneider Worcester, MA
Concern for Crabb's Fingers
On page 49 of your October issue, you show a picture of Tom Crabb rounding the edges of a yo-yo on a router table. I
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was wondering if Mr. Crabb has designed a yo-yo for future use that can be thrown and caught with nubs in place of fingers. I do like the three-point fence idea, but Mr. Crabb needs to devise a better way to hold the yo-vo than is shown in the picture.
Michael D. Schall Midland, TX
Your August edition of AMERICAN WOODWORKER has an article by Lonnic Bird entitled "Dimensioning Stock." I would have no quarrel with Mr. Bird if the title of the article was "How a Jointer-Planer Can be Utilized." I do however disagree with the article as it pertains particularly to edge jointing. The best, and, in my view, the only way to proceed in edge jointing the two boards shown on the bottom of page 61 is as follows:
Set the board in a vise and with a hand plane (jack size) plane down the high ends and then finish jointing with a #6, #7 or jointer plane. The board shown in the illustration can be jointed in just a few minutes. It can then be run across the jointer-planer to assure right-angle edges.
With the second board illustrated — use the same procedure but plane down the middle of the board and then use a jointer plane. Then, if nccessary, run across the jointer-planer.
As one who earns a living working wood, I strive for both excellence and efficiency in my woodworking. This involves a balanced approach between machinery and hand tools.
Machines allow me to dimension stock many times faster than could ever be accomplished by hand. This gives me time to produce fine details in my work with hand tools.
To quickly straighten the edge of a crooked board, / set my jointer to remove as much as in.; then I plane down the offending high spots. Once the edge is true, I take one light pass over the entire length of the board to produce a finished surface. This is a commonly used professional technique, but it definitely requires a large, powerful jointer like the one pictured in my article. —Lonnie Bird
Thanks for the "Carved Coffee Table" article in October's issue. To say it is an elegant piece is an understatement in my mind. The pictures of the table jumped at me and said, "You can make this table! The drawings arc clear, the templates drawn—just do it!"
The reason for my letter is that I have no formal woodworking training of any kind; in fact, what I've learned has come from reading books and magazines. In my four years of making small boxes, wood has taught me some harsh lessons by moving just a little bit in the wrong place.
I have two questions. Since I'm planning to use I /^-in.-thick mahogany for the rails instead of 2-in. stock, should I
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