Gauge parts. After drilling through the fence block, the hole is enlarged to the pencil line. Then the edges of the rabbeted beam are rounded to fit the fence hole.
beam blank, then chuck a -/ft-in. round-over bit in the router cable, and round all four edges of the beam as shown in the drawing. Routing che beam leaves flat spots, which I feather out by pulling a strip of cloth-backed sandpaper around the beam while it's clamped in my bench vise. A 10° 10 20° cwisi of the beam should lock it tightly against the walls of the hole. When you're happy with the fit, finish sand your gauge and give it a couple coats of paste wax.
Install the pin. To make the marking pin. nip off the head of a 4d nail, then sharpen the point to a knife edge on a grinder or with a file (see drawing), and buff the ground surface with a cloth wheel. To drill the hole for the pin, first lock the fence onto the beam, then drill through the beam so the hole is vertical. I'm careful not to make the fit too snug since I remove the pin with pliers occasionally for resharpening.
When installing the pin, tap the pin through the hole so approximately Vi6 in. of the cutting edge protrudes. For a gauge that cuts on the pull stroke, turn the knife edge about 5° away from the face of the fence. (See drawing.) The angled cutter will rhen pull the gauge's fence into the edge of the work-piece. keeping your marks accurate. ▲
FRANK KLAUSZ is a master cabinetmaker in New Jersey.
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