Tedswoodworking Plans

Ted's Woodworking Plans

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1. Here are same wtxxlworkvig topics ue plan to co\vr in future issues. Please check off the topics you'd like to leant more al>out. (Check as many as vrxi like.) Then, go lyack and circle the one topic that interests you most.

Wood: The Material_


Machine Woodworking_


Bending Wood_

Musical Instruments_

Tool & Machine Reviews_

Basic Techniques_

Woodworking History_

Wooduxjrker Profiles_

Hand Tools.




Furniture Design_

Jigs & Fixtures_


Furniture Projects_

Small Projects_

Selling Your Work_

Other (please specify)—

2. What is your wxxxlwotking skill letvl? (Please check one.)



3. In general, which tvpe of article would you like to see more often in AMERICAN WOODWORKER? (Please check one.)

Project Plans__Woodworking Techniques_

Tool & Machine Reviews_

Other (Please specify)_

Dremel Keeps Its Cool

When The Competition

Hpate I b


Introducing the revolutionary new Dremel Heavy Duty Rex-Shaft. A tool that gives you more power and less heat.

On the left, '/s horsepower, 20,000 RPM's and 50% more torque than other brands.

On the right, handpieces designed to run smoother and keep hands cooler through hours of tough work.

Get your hands on one and do more work, with no sweat.


Watch Those Fingers

It always bothers mc when I see craftsmen using tools without adequate concern for safety. The June, 1990 AW has several instances of this. The cutoff box could easily have been fitted with a Plexiglass blade guard. The box-building article could have utilized feather boards and hold-downs to position the work without compromising safety.

While I find your articles to be excellent, the techniques presented in them ought to deal with all aspects of woodworking—including operator safety. We only have ten fingers, they are easily damaged, and they don't grow back!

Ralph lipeles Monroe. CT

We recommend that you don V switch on a machine unless yon 're wearing safety glasses and ear protection, and wv strongly recommend the use of safety devices such as guards, hold-downs, push sticks and feather hoards when appropriate: Hi' were comfortable without a guard on our tahlesaw cutoff box, l>ecause our hands never got near the blade in the working area of the box. The real danger zone with this type of sliding table is behind the fence on the ojyerator's side, where the blade comes through. We felt that a Day-Glo warning stripe around this danger zone wxndd remind us to keep our hands away from this entire area. If you feel more secure with a "guard," screw a stop block wider the opera-tor's fence that butts against the edge of the saw table and stops the forward mo\ement of the cutoff box before the blade comes through the fence.

Ifyxxi feel safer with a guard across the top of your cutoff box, screw a 2-in. or 3-in. wide strip of clear '/+-in. Plexiglass oxer the kerf across the two fences, or install a hinged Plexiglass cover oxer the entire box.

Happy Reader

I'm a recent subscriber and impressed with the meaty articles in AW. Hand-Plane Basics, Tablesaw Cutoff Box, Boxmaking, Reproducing a Mission Oak Chair, Hewing a Beam, Tapered Sliding Dovetails-all these are very useful and just what the inspired woodworker is looking for.

I'd like to add that I look forward to the next installments of the period furniture historv, because I like knowing the history of the craft as I do mv best to practice what the old (and new) masters have taken the time to work out.

The craft of woodworking is a venerable tradition. Thank you for vour

•» w continuing acknowledgement of this.

A final request: that you ask Roger Holmes to update and write about anv information that he has on the British Cotswald Shops run by Gimson and the Barnsleys. These men were among the finest and most prolific furniture makers in history, and it would be a treat to see a working drawing or two (or three) of their early Gothic revival pieces.

kenneth J. habeeb Half Moon Bay, CA

More Mangled Mags

The condition in which your magazine arrived is almost humorous. It looks as if it was run through a mulcher. I don't know whether the damage was done before or after the mailman received it. but you should consider using some type of protective cover.

On a good note, 1 enjoy your magazine and look forward to each issue. I appreciate the articles on basic techniques and comparison tool guides. You also have a good balance between small and large projects.

Michael Haerr Soottsdalc, AZ

We've had so many complabus about mangled magazines that we \e decided to resume our prex'ious practice of mailing AW in a protect he wrapper.

Take Your Hobby to Market

Recently, a co-worker asked me if I could build a gun cabinet for him, and what it would cost. This caught me off guard. As a hobbyist with 2 years experience, I have fantasized about selling my work, but never confronted the realities. I was flattered and completely unnerved at the same time. Many questions and doubts came to mind as I realized that I was not sure whether I was ready for this. I gracefully declined the request and have been questioning my decision ever since. If you have not done so already, would you please do an article, or series, on common-sense strategies and down-to-earth advice for the hobbiest who would like to sell some of his/her work? Even some words of encouragement would be nice.

perry A.younker

Plumb Fittiri

If you have several power tools and one dust collector that you move from tool to tool, you can find all kinds of quick-disconnect fittings at the local RV (recreational vehicle) supply. They even have shut-off valves that are nicer than any of the blast gates I have seen. Prices, locally, are $2 to $5 for fittings and $13 for the shut-off valves. These fittings are designed for waste water, so they have a real good seal.

Craig dearing Waynesboro, VA

Dust-Collector Corrector

K.G. Singleton alerted us to an error in the dust collector plans (June, 1990 AW A The original plans leaw a gap between each filter and the base of the dust collector. This wxxdd allow unfil-tered air to pass through. The drawing you see here shows the addition of a wxxxl strip (added to both sides) that will correct the problem.

Tell us what you think. Send \our comments, compliments, complaints and corrections to: Editor, AMERICAN WOODWORKER. 33 E. Minor St., Emmaus, PA 18098.

Chip in Smoothing Plane

QjMy favorite plane is an oUI

• wooden smooth plane that \mrks like a dream. The only problem is that the hack edge of the mouth, behind the iron, has started to chip slightly from use. I'm worried that someday a big chunk will tear out and render the plane useless. Is there some way I

cati keep this from getting worse?


A Sitting on a shelf in my shop

• arc some dozen wooden bench planes, so I understand your concern.

The chipped edge on your plane is the intersection of the bed (the surface on which the cutter rests) and the sole. These two surfaces meet at a shaip 45° (50° on some planes) corner. Although protected by the cutter, this corner still gets an occasional knock and may chip easily. The mouth's front edge forms an obtuse angle and is much stronger, and less subject to chipping.

Many of my planes have the same chipping as yours. But I've found that this doesn't affect their performance in anv wav. Also, none of my planes has chipped any worse since I've owned them, so this should put your mind at ease. I predict that the plane will give you good service for the rest of your life.

Mike Dunbar Contributing Editor Portsmouth, NH

Reflect on This

Ql made a cabinet with a frame-• and-panel door. 1 glued up the panel from two pieces of walnut from the same board and wvs careful to match the grain so it lookedgixxl. But when I finished the door with tung oil and hung the cabinet on the \\w//> the twxj boards in the panel reflected light differently, making the glueup wry obvious. One lx>ard looks much lighter than the other—even more so i?i daylight. How can I fix this problem and axvid it in the future.


Worcester. MA

panels from woods such as walnut or mahogany. When you open the two halves out, the grain will run out at an angle on one piece and tun in at the same angle on the other piece. It's only after you finish the surface that the different grain angles will reflect light differently.

There arc three ways to get around this. You could fill the open pores of the wood before finishing to minimize the differences in surface texture, though this deadens the appearance somewhat. Or. you could select a piece of wood with a symmetrical grain pattern across its face.

Avoiding grain reflectance problems

Drawing 1

Drawing 1

1. Choose board with symmetrical grain pattern.

Drawing 2.

Drawing 2.

1. Choose straight grained board. Grain pnM to surface.

3. Fltp ooe picce over. Grain direction wflbesamein both pieces.

1. Choose straight grained board. Grain pnM to surface.

2. Sfice intwo.

3. Fltp ooe picce over. Grain direction wflbesamein both pieces.

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