Make it Big or make it Small
Want to fill your whole wall (even around a window!) with enough storage for a whole library? You can do that!
The shelves of our bookcase can easily be made longer than 8 ft. by staggering the plywood pieces when you glue them together. If you measure carefully you'll even be able to hide the joints under the vertical partitions. Use a biscuit joint below the window openings to keep the vertical partitions lined up.
Need a small bookcase? No problem. You can make this bookcase smaller, too. You can even edge band both sides of the shelves and use the unit as a room divider. Just be sure to fasten it to the floor.
You can also make it low, with a piece of glass on the top for a contemporary sofa table. For a low design, skip the trim screws in the top edge banding (parts B) and just glue it on. When it comes time to assemble, epoxy the
threaded rods into the square holes in the bottom of the top partitions. Then assemble and fasten the parts together, from the bottom, with regular hex nuts.
ROUT, DRILL AND ASSEMBLE
Use your router to cut the grooves that house the hidden assembly and mounting hardware. Then counterbore for the nuts and washers, and drill the shelves for threaded rods. Assembly is a breeze—just slip the parts together and tighten the nuts.
T Trim off 3/4 in. of the / back edge of the bottom par' titions (parts L6, M6 and R6). This provides clearance for your wall's baseboard so the bookcase stands flush against the wall. Make sure to re-label the backs of the bottom partitions (L6, M6 and R6) with their location markings.
1 ^ Rout the grooves for the wall-mounting brackets into the top par-^ titions (parts LI, Ml and Rl, see Fig. E for details). First remove the top edge ' ^^ banding strips (parts B) and replace them with short pieces of scrap edge band-ing.These temporary pieces are needed as spacers because the front edge banding overhangs the top edge.They are left short so they don't interfere when routing the groove. Use a 1 -in.-diameter straight bit for the routing. Cut the deeper top groove in two or three passes.
Drill holes for the assembly nuts and washes. Drill into the center of the square wood pegs that are glued into the panels. Only the top and bottom partitions (parts L, M and R) receive these large holes.
Ream out the square holes in all of the vertical partitions (parts L, M and R) with a long drill bit (see Sources, page 108). This removes any dried glue, wood splinters and remaining wood pegs.
1 / Edge band the shelves
(parts A). Start with the ends (parts E) and then add the front edge banding (parts F). Trim any overhanging edge banding with a handsaw and flush trim the long edges with a flush-trim bit in your router.
1 ^ Drill holes for the threaded rods in the I g shelves. Lay out these holes carefully and use a drill * ' press to ensure that the holes go straight through the shelves. See Fig. D for the layout dimensions. After all the parts for the bookcase are fabricated, do a final sanding.Then apply a clear finish of your choice. Finishing prior to final assembly is a lot easier than brushing or spraying all those inside corners once the bookcase is put together.
Saw the mounting L-bracket and threaded rods to length. The length of the short leg on the mounting angle is not critical, just cut it off about 1/4-in. beyond the first hole.
1 f \ Assemble the I ^^ prefinished ' ' bookcase on the floor. Lay the parts on their backs and slide them onto the threaded rods. Start with the bottom partitions and shelves and work your way to the top. The acorn nut at the bottom acts as a bolt head and makes tightening a lot easier. After sliding all the parts together, put a regular hex nut and washer on the top end. Lightly tighten the parts using a socket wrench at each end.The vertical partitions should self-align, but if you notice one that's slightly out of alignment, give it a little bump until it's lined up. When everything is perfectly aligned, do a final tightening.
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