Saw kerfs in the tenons for the wedges. Don't cut all the way to the shoulder. Leave about Vm lit. at the bottom of the tenon.
Sawing wedges to the proper angle is much easier with this wedge-sawing jig. Hold wedge stock against the angled Mock and saw in the jig's kerf. The angle of the fence to the kerf b approximately 15 .
Before fitting the tenons, clean up the tenon shoulders with a paring chisel. Round the tops and bottoms of the tenons to fit the mortises. I do this by marking through the mortises onto the tenon ends to provide a visual guide. (See photo.) Then I round the tenons with a chisel and a gouge. (Caution: Sometimes the grain on the tenons will cause the gouge to cut deep into the tenon, so take small bites.) Do the final shaping of the tenons with a file that has a "safe" (smooth) edge so you don't accidentally file the shoulders.
When fitting the joinery, go slow and don't try to force the tenons home. By pushing the joints together a bit at a time, the mortises will "burnish" the light spots on the tenons. These burnished places arc the areas you need to file. Because the tenons are wedged, it's helpful to file the mortises to splay outward slightly at each end. When you drive the wedges in, the tenon will spread to fill the mortise.
After fitting all the tenons, take the box apart and cut the wedge slots in the tenons. I used a hacksaw for this. (See photo, above.) Don't cut all the way to the shoulder. Leave at least V\t> in. at the bottom of the tenon. Also, if you want proud tenons, this is the lime to round the ends of cach tenon with a file. (Trying to shape these tenons after glue-up will result in scratches and nicks in your side pieces.)
To rout the groove for the bottom panel, first dry assemble the box. Plane the bottom edges of all four sides until they are flush with each other and the box sits fiat on your bench. Take the box apart, and on a router table with a fence, cut the
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