Brace Block

BASE CLEAT FRONT ^

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I started by cutting a nice, flat piece of plywood for the center section. Next, add a strip of edging to the back edge of the panel and trim it flush with the sides.

The front and sides have a wider border that's mitered at the corners. I used this border to dress up the top with a routed profile as shown at the bottom of page 36. Once complete, the top is just glued to the case, flush at the back.

THE BASE, Next up is the traditional "ogee" base. And since this chest is likely to end up carrying a pretty heavy load, you need a base that's up to the task. A look at tiie drawings at right show how a little bit of simple joinery does the trick. I'll just give you a quick rundown.

THE BASE JOINERY. Once the front and side pieces are cut to width and rough length, you can miter them into a three-sided frame. Then I added splines to reinforce the miter joints (detail 'a'). To finish up the joinery, you can rabbet the back end of the side pieces to hold the brace blocks added later.

THE SHAPING. With this joiner, complete, I started work on shaping the base pieces. First, a _ roundover on the top edges goes quickly (detail 'c').

But the ogee cutouts will take some time. I started by making a hardboard pattern so my curves would be consistent (see below right). The layout was followed by a trip to the band saw. The router table is the last stop m the process

(see photos below). When the shaping is done, assemble the pieces into a three-sided frame.

CLEATS AND BRACES. The three cleats added to the inside of the base provide an easy way to screw it to the case. Before adding the cleats, you want to pre-drill the screw holes.

And with the cleats installed, the base is ready to take its place on the case, flush across the back. Glue and screws will hold it solidly.

Finally, the two simple brace blocks can be made and securely fastened to both the base and the case as shown in detail'd.'

Shop Tip: Shaping the Base Profile

The Ogee Profile. A waste cut and a second, intersecting cut following the profile remove the waste.

A Flush Trim. The straight section can be smoothed using a flush trim bit and a straightedge taped to the workpiece.

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