Case Back

Shop Tip: Good Clamping Pressure

Once the frames are assembled, you can take them to the table saw and use a dado blade to cut the tongue along the sides. And then detail 'c' on the opposite page shows the step before assembling the case. Plastic stem bumpers make the drawers slide easily, so drill the holes for these now.

GLUE AND CLAMPS. The compact size of the case is a big plus during the assembly. But you'll find that once the case is assembled, there won't be any give to it. So make sure it's square from the start. The box below gives a good tip on how to handle the glueup.

THE FACE FRAME. With the case assembled, you can turn your attention to trimming it out with a face frame. A look at the drawing at right shows how easy this is. Since the case is already plentv solid, you don't need to worry about using the face frame to add more strength. It just covers the front of the case and creates the two drawer openings. What it boils down to is that you don't need to join the face frame parts. An easy piece-by-piece assembly using butt joints will get the job done.

I worked from the outside in and first cut the two face frame stiles (D) to size from %"-thick stock. Then just glue them in place, flush to the outside edge of the case sides (detail 'a'). Now you can carefully cut the three face frame rails to fit between the stiles and glue them to the front rails of the web frames.

The finishing touch on the face frame is a chamfer routed along the outside edge of the stiles. Just lay the case on its back and then use a hand-held router to do the work as shown in detail T>' above.

THE SACK, Fitting the Vi" plywood back will wrap things up. I figured i might want to pop the back off when working on the drawers, so I used woodscrews (no glue) to fasten it to the case (detail 'c').

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