End View

Rout rabbet to remove chipout area

Round corner to match end of rabbet

Position bit and ' i to rout out damaged area

Router fence

Glue oversized fillei strip into rabbet

Moving a Hole

Drilling pilot holes for hinges screws is not one of my favorite chores. No matter how hard I try, it seems like there's always at least one hole where the drill bit drifts off its mark. When this hap ng hole with a larger-er drill bit. i A Forstner r.vs :. -: Then glue a iln plug into this hole.

out the correct ■ ror the pilot hole and the hole.

pens, the best solution I've found is to "move" the hole.

This might sound impossible, but if you take a look at the drawings below, you'll see how easy it really is. AM you have to do is drill out the

Drill bit -drifts off center

Cut face -grain plug to fill hole.

Carefully -redrill hole


3 Misplaced Mortise

There are few mistakes in woodworking that can make you feel as foolish as making a mortise in tiie wrong spot on a work-piece. If you have extra stock, it's probably easier to make a new part. But if you're working on something more substantial (like a heavy table leg) making a new piece may not be an option.

In this case, the next best solution is to "patch" the mortise. The process is really pretty straightforward. Start by cutting a wood plug to fit in the mortise. After gluing it into the mortise, trim Vs" off the face of the workpiece. (The face with the mortise.)

Glue wood plug into mortise

Next, cut a facing out of some VV'-thick stock and glue it to the workpiece. (Try to match the facing to the color and grain of the workpiece as close as possible.) After trimming the facing flush with the workpiece, you can lay out the mortise in the correct location.

Mortises do not alighn —


Plugging a misplaced mortise allows you to salvage a workpiece

Glue facing to workpiece then remake mortise

from face of workpiece /

4 Damaged Tenon

It's not only mortises that can eive you problems. Sometimes a tenon can snap off while you are making a dry run to test the fit Here again, making an entirely new replacement piece may not always be the best option. In this case, you can recut the tenon by gluing on a new ''end'' to the workpiece.

To do this, start by trimming off the damaged tenon at the shoulder. Then cut a slot in the end of the workpiece as shown in the drawing at right. (This slot should be at least 1" deep.)

Tenon damaged

Next, cut a tongue on the end of a scrap piece of stock to fit in the slot in the workpiece. After gluing the scrap piece into the slot, you can go ahead recut the tenon.

To make repair start by cutting off tenon

FIRST: cut slot in end of workpiece

Oversize new A tenon 1 blank

" Glue new piece of wood into slot and recut tenon

Half Lap. You can repair a damaged tenon by trimming it off and gluing on a new piece of wood ro the end of the workpiece.

SOpen Miters

Miter joints are notoriously tricky when it comes to getting a tight fit without any gaps. This next tip has saved me on more than one occasion.

If you have a miter joint that is open just slightly, try "burnishing" it closed. All you have to do is take a burnisher (1 use the round shank of a screwdriver) and run it across the edge of the open miter (from bottom to top), as in the drawing at right.

The burnisher closes up the joint by "rolling over" the mitered ends ww w.Wood smith. co m of the workpieces. Once the project is finished, you'll probably be the only one that will know there was ever a problem to begin with.

Note: This tip works well on miters that are off just slightly Bur

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