Drawer

Now that the case is complete, it's time to build the wide drawer under the shelf.

drawer. i built this drawer out of hard maple and used a dovetail jig with a V2" bit, see drawing at right. The height of the drawer is based on the dovetails; I wanted a half pin at the top and bottom of the drawer. When building the drawer, size it so it sets back 3/4" from the front edge of the posts (to allow for a false front) and has room in the back for a stop, see Figs. 15 and 16.

As for the drawer bottom (O), I used V4'1 plywood and located it 5/i6" up to allow clearance for the guide, see detail 'a' at right.

guide. After the drawer is glued up, I began working on the guide system. The drawer follows a centered guide that rides in a channel underneath the drawer. (For more on this, see the article on page 26.)

To create this channel, first cut a centered notch on the front and back of the drawer, see detail 'b' at right. This notch determines the width of the channel. Then to complete the channel, two thin guide runners (P) are added to the bottom of the drawer.

Next, the guide (Q) can be cut to fit the channel and then installed in the case, see Fig. 13. To do this, you'll need to rabbet the ends so it can be screwed to the front rail cap and the back rail, see Figs. 13a and b.

runners. At this point, the guide is complete, but the weight of the drawer shouldn't rest on the guide. So to support the drawer,

Plan Temple

DRAWER SIDE

a. cross section

DRAWER SIDE

5Ae"

O) DRAWER BOTTOM

I cut two drawer runners (R) to size and notched the back corners so they'd fit around the posts in back, see Fig. 14. These runners are installed Vie" above the rail cap in front, see Fig. 14a. This creates the gap needed between the rail cap and the drawer.

false front. Now with the drawer in place the false front (S) can be added to the front of the drawer, see Fig. 15. This false front is cut to fit the opening minus Vie" on each side for clearance. Simply screw the false front to the drawer so it's centered side-to-side with the bottom edges flush, see Fig. 15a. Then add two cherry knobs.

drawer stops. Finally, to prevent the drawer from stopping against the case back, I glued two small drawer stops to the back corner posts, see Fig. 16.

(b. NOTE: Drawer upside down

(b. NOTE: Drawer upside down

in opening

screw un b.

Guide flush" with rabbet

in opening screw un b.

Guide flush" with rabbet

FRONT

NOTE:

Cut false front to have Vk" clearance on all sides a.

cross section

cross section

FRONT

NOTE:

Cut false front to have Vk" clearance on all sides woodsc

#8 x VA" Fh woodscrew

RUNNER

CLEAT

NOTE:

Stop blocks cut to fit between shelf cleat and drawer runner a.

cross section

NOTE:

Notch runner around rear post

DRAWER RUNNER

#8x2"

Fh wood-screwJ

NOTE:

Notch runner around rear post

CLEAT

NOTE:

Stop blocks cut to fit between shelf cleat and drawer runner

RUNNER

DRAWER RUNNER

#8x2"

Fh wood-screwJ

NOTE:

Stop blocks should position drawer false front flush with corner posts in front a.

cross section

Stop block

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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