Compartment Construction Sequence

1: Mill all parts to finished thickness and width, and to rough length. 5: Cut the three lower crosspieces to fit between the sides and central

2: Cut the two sides to finished length; cut their dadoes, rabbets dividers, cut their dadoes, and install these pieces.

and fee!. Place the sides inside the carcase. 6: Cut and install the remaining dividers and crosspieces.

3: Cut the top, bottom and upper crosspiece to fit between the sides. Use glue blocks to install the ornate console.

Cut the dadoes in these parts and install them. 7: Cut and install the two pieces of crosspiece trim, using 3/4-in. brads.

4: Cut the central dividers to fit between the bottom and the upper crosspiece. Then glue the rabbeted header to the top.

Cut their dadoes and feet, then install them. 8: Finish up by installing the cabinet's top rail, bullnose and cornice.

piece. The two central dividers support the lower and upper crosspieces as well as the twin compartments above the ornate console. Cut and fit these parts in the right order and you'll have scant need of glue.

To top off the compartments, I glued a rabbeted header to the the top front edge of the top piece. (See Fig. 5.) Then I cut and installed the carcase top rail and bull-nose. The cornice went on last.

The upper compartment's frame-and-panel doors have pegged mortisc-and-tcnon joints. Each door's flat cherry panel is */4 in. thick, and floats in grooves milled in frame members. A simple l/4-in. by Vl6-in. rabbet on each of the two ccntcr stiles allows the doors to overlap when they closc. To show the same 2-in.

stile width when the doors arc closcd, the center stile on the left door (where the rabbet faccs out) needs to be 2l/4 in. wide. After the doors are installed, you may need to drill a small rccess on the inside of the left door to accommodatc the end of the ccntcr drawer pull.

The Finishing Touch

Finishing off this desk was a joy for me. It's the part of the process where I'm most in tunc with the personal value that I bring to the piccc.

Hard edges over the entire piccc were chamfered with a small block plane and chisel. Beads, round-overs and bullnoses were created with scratch stock that I fashioned using hand files and old tool steel. (For more on making a scratch stock, see AW #37.) For final shaping of my not-quitc-symmctrical bullnoses, I used scrapcrs and a spokeshave that belonged to my grandfather. After going over flat surfaces with a hand scrapcr, I rubbed them out with 0000 steel wool. Finally, I finished this piccc with two coats of hot linseed oil and two coats of tung oil. (See AW #36, page 48 for details on my oil finish.) A

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