nhen my son turned 13, we suddenly had need for another mirror. The boy we could never get clean suddenly took an interest in his looks. I designed and built this red oak mirror to hang over his dresser.
The curved top is glued up from four separate pieces joined with 22V20 miters. I reinforced the miters with walnut splines which contrast nicely wfith the oak.
You may be tempted to order the glass for the mirror before you've built the frame. Instead of trying to build a frame to match a pre-cut mirror, I think it's better to order the mirror after you've cut the mirror rabbet in the back of the frame. Make a cardboard template that fits the opening, and let the glass company cut a mirror to match your opening.
Begin construction by cutting the parts from 3A-in. stock. Rip the sides, bottom, and top pieces to the widths shown in the Bill of Materials, but leave them at least V2-in. longer than the given length so that you don't have to cut miters on the very end of the board.
The next step is to cut the 22miters that join the four top pieces. I've found the best way to get the precise setting on a saw is by trial and measure. The measurement scales on most machines are notoriouslv bad — trust them to get you close, then cut a test joint on two scrap pieces of wood. Hold the boards together to form a trial 45° joint, and check it against your 45° square. If the joint isn't perfect, adjust the saw slightly and try again. When the sample joint is perfect, miter the four top pieces. Putting a stop on the miter gauge, as shown in the photo, ensures that each piece is exactly the same length.
Even a well-cut miter isn't very strong, because most of the glue surface is end grain, making for a weak joint. I strengthened each joint by inserting an exposed
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