bit—there isn't any place for the pilot bearing to ride. I routed the rabbet for the back by outfitting mv router with a guide-bushing and guiding the bushing against a hardboard template.
If you haven't done this type of pattern routing before. it isn't hard. The template guide, which looks like a little top hat through which the bit projects, screws to the base of your router. The outside edge of the guide-bushing rides against a hardboard template to guide the cut as shown in the drawing.
Make the template as shown, out of lA»-in. hardboard. The opening should be the shape of the back, but larger in all directions bv the difference between the outer diameter of the guide and the diameter of the bit as shown in Fig. 2.
Saw the curve in the template with a saber saw, and smooth it with a half-round file. Cut the straight edges with a router and fence. Tack the template in place on the back of the mirror (make sure it's centered) and set the router for a '/<-in. deep cut. Make the cut. keeping the guide-bushing snug against the template. When the rabbet is finished, square up the bottom comers with a chisel and cut the plywood back to fit.
To hang the mirror. I cut two keyhole slots in each side of the frame with a special kevhole bit (available from MLCS, P.O. Box 4053A. RydaK PA 19046). Or. you could attach screw eyes to each side and hang the mirror on picture wire.
Finish the frame as desired. I applied two coats of Watco Natural Danish Oil. I wet-sanded the second coat with 600 wet-dry paper and then gave the frame a good coat of paste wax.
Clean the mirror glass with any glass cleaner and put it in place. Install the plywood back with '/>in., #6 brass, flat head screws to complete the project. A
Clamp the frame securely to the bench and round over the edges with a router.
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