the middle section of the left side cutting edge.
Stop at the depth cut. Don't try to cut uphill on the left side of the depth cut. If you do catch the unsupported left edge of the gouge on the uphill side of the cove, it will dig in. slam the tool down on the rest, and leave a nastv-looking furrow in the wood. If this happens, you can usually clean up the dig when you repeat the cut on the left side of the cove.
To cut the left side of the cove, repeat the above steps on the left side of the depth cut, starting with the gouge on its right side and rolling the tool counterclockwise. Alternate the cuts—first right, then left—until you reach the bottom of the depth cut.
Once you've got the shape you want, rc-honc the cutting edge, set your calipers for the final l'/t-in. dia. at the center of the cove, and clean up the cove with a couple of light finishing cuts. Use the same technique for finishing cuts but go slower and try to remove any ridges.
For a half cove, vou onlv need to make one reference w J J
mark for the length of the cove since the depth cut is the marker for the other end of the decorative element. Mark out and make your depth cut with a parting tool in the manner described above.
There is a real risk, when making a half cove, of catching the unsupported edge in the wall of wood at the end of the cut. A slightly altered technique is required to avoid this. The cutting action is the same as for a full cove but the gouge channel should only be turned about 2/j toward the depth cut at the start of the cut instead of fully facing it. Cut with the upper section of the cutting edge closer to the tip. The handle should be raised higher at the end of the cut and the channel should face the wood wall. If you do catch the edge, the dig can be cleaned up with a skew chisel cut.
The first cuts slice off the outer comers of the bead, cutting downhill, away from center.
Define the large and small diameters of the bead with a parting tool.
Was this article helpful?