Walnut Spline

Bandsaw the inside curve before gluing the top to the rest of the frame.

Don't try to glue up the entire top at once—glue it up in two sections. The scrap left from mitering the ends provides a clamping surface.

cut the strip into 1 -in. wide splines.

Before gluing, dry fit the top pieces together to make sure the joints pull up tight. Miters tend to slip under pressure from clamps, so I glue clamping blocks to the frame as shown. Glue both surfaces as vou normally

• w would but put a piece of heavy paper between the blocks and the frame. Let the glue dry before you clamp up the miters. When the time comes, you can remove the blocks bv tapping sharply with a hammer. A scraper will remove the paper and glue.

I glue the top of the frame in two sections. First I glue up two pieces to form one half of the curve as shown in the photo, and then I glue up the other two pieces to make the other half. Clamp across the face of the joint as shown, to keep the frame tight against the spline. When both sections are dry, I glue the pair together to form the entire arch.

Now miter the joints for the bottom. Set up the 45° miter with the technique you used earlier, but check the sample joint against a 90° square. Cut the top ends of the mirror sides at 90°.

Before you glue the top to the sides, lay out the curve with trammel points, and bandsaw the inside curve of the top. Once the frame is assembled, you can't get inside with a bandsaw to make the cut. After sawing, I smoothed the inside of the curve with a drum sander in my hand drill.

Glue the assembled top. the sides and the bottom together. Clamp across the lower miters, using clamping blocks as explained above. After the glue has dried, bandsaw the outer curve of the top and clean up the curve with a spokeshave.

Round over the front edges of the frame with a router and a '/j-in. round-over bit with a ball-bearing guide as shown in the drawing. Ball-bearing guides are much better than stationary bearings, which tend to bum the wood. Round over the outer edge on the back of the frame with a '/.»-in. round-over bit.

The mirror glass and the plywood back are housed in separate rabbets cut in the back of the frame as shown in the drawing. Cut the rabbet for the mirror glass with a router and rabbeting bit. Unfortunately, you can't cut the rabbet for the back with a rabbeting

FIG. 1: WALL MIRROR

Was this article helpful?

0 0

Post a comment