Exploded View

OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 483/8Wx21DX 161/8H

TOP EDGING STRIP

OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 483/8Wx21DX 161/8H

TOP EDGING STRIP

LARGE DRAWER

HARDBOARD SPLINE

LARGE DRAWER

HARDBOARD SPLINE

MATERIALS LIST

wood

A Top/Bottom (2) B Back (1) C Sides (2) D Divider (1) e Door (1) F Top/Btm. Edging (4) 3/4 x 3/4 g Side Edging (8) H Divider Edging (1) I Divider Keys (3) J Drw. Runners (10) k Sm. Drw. Fr./Bk. (6) L Sm. Drw. Sides (6) M Lg. Drw. Fr./Bk. (4) N Lg. Drw. Sides (4) O Cleats (2) p Drw. Bottoms (5) Q Splines*

* Approximately 30 ft. of needed for the splines.

3/4 ply-19'/2 x467/8 3/4 ply -145/8 x 467/s 3A ply - 145/8x 19V2 3/4 ply - 14Vsx 19V2 3A ply -1315/i 6 x 2 2 V2

- 467/8 3/4 x 3/4 - 21 rough 3/4 x 3/4 - 16 rough '/4 x 3/4 - 21 rough 3/s x '/2 - 19V2 1/2 x 2V4 - 2215/i6

V2 x 2 V4 -193/4 V2 x 33/4 - 22,5/l6 V2 x 33/4 - 193/4 1/2 x 2 - 153/8 V4hbd.-193/i6x223/8 Vs hbd. - 7/i6 wide hardboard is hardware supplies

(2) No. 8x1" Fh woodscrews (2) V-dia x y2"-long dowels (2) V4"-dia. x V4"-long dowels (6) 7/i6"-dia. x 33/4"-bore wood pulls

CUTTING DIAGRAM

CUTTING DIAGRAM

V2 x 7'/4 - 72 (Two Boards @ 3.6 Sq. Ft. Each)

K

K

K IV.

M

M

3/4" PLYWOOD 48 x 96

3/4" PLYWOOD 48 x 96

NOTE: ALSO NEED 4"x 8' SHEET OFVV HARDBOARD FOR DRAWER BOTTOMS (P) AND'/s" HARDBOARD SCRAPS FOR 7/I6"-WIDE SPLINES (Q) (APPROX. 30 FT. NEEDED)

145/s

BACK 14Va" x 46%"

BOTTOM

Vi" x KEYS ON TOP/BOTTOM/BACK OF DIVIDER

CUT W-DEEP DADO TO WIDTH OF PLYWOOD. CENTER ON TOP/BOTTOM/BACK

ROUTER

FENCE

RIGHT tfA SIDE ^

BACK 14Va" x 46%"

BOTTOM

Vi" x KEYS ON TOP/BOTTOM/BACK OF DIVIDER

CUT W-DEEP DADO TO WIDTH OF PLYWOOD. CENTER ON TOP/BOTTOM/BACK

145/s

ROUTER

FENCE

EDGING

SLOT CUTTER BIT

INSIDE CORNER

7/l6

va r

CORNER DETAIL

t^TL

'/8"HARDBOARD SPLINE 7/i6" WIDE

RIGHT tfA SIDE ^

LEFT

SIDE

DIVIDER

13'3/16

1116

53/8

19/l6 t

SEE FIGURE 3 FOR GROOVE DETAIL

'/8"HARDBOARD SPLINE 7/i6" WIDE

SEE FIGURE 3 FOR GROOVE DETAIL

To build the cabinet, start by cutting all the plywood pieces to size (Fig. 1). (I used 3/i" maple plywood, but birch plywood would work just as well.) The top/bottom (A) and back (B) are cut l5/«" less than the distance between the legs of the bench (to allow for edging strips and clearance).

The divider (D) is cut to the same size as the sides (C) to begin with to make it easier to match the spacing of the dadoes for the drawer guides. Then later, special "keys" are added to make up for the difference (Fig. 1).

edging strips. Next, :W X edging strips (F, G, H) are ripped to rough length. These strips hide the edges of the plywood and join the corners of the cabinet (refer to Fig. 5).

grooves. To help align the edging strips and the plywood, I used V&" hard-board splines (refer to Fig. 3). The splines fit into grooves routed into both the edging strips and all four edges of all the plywood pieces (except the divider). To rout the grooves, I used a slot cutter in the router table (Fig. 2). All the edging strips, except those on the front, are grooved on two sides.

dadoes. Before the case can be assembled, dadoes have to be cut in the plywood. The first dadoes join the divider to the other panels (Fig. 1).

The next dadoes are channels for W dowels (glide pins) that are part of the flip-up door assembly. These dadoes are positioned down from the top of the divider and left side panel (Fig. 4).

And finally, five pairs of dadoes are cut for the drawer runners on the right side panel and divider (Fig. 4).

runners. When the dadoes are finished, rip ten drawer runners 0) to fit in the dadoes and glue them in place before the plywood warps (Fig. 5a).

apply edging strips. Now the edging strips can be applied to the edges of the plywood panels.

Begin by ripping V«" hardboard splines (Q) 7/k;" wide. (This is Vih" less than needed, to provide glue relief.) Then cut all the splines V2" shorter than the plywood edges they'll be joined to. (This allows W at each end so the splines won't interfere with one another.)

I glued the edging strips (G) to the side panels first (Fig. 5). They're mitered to length to fit around the plywood.

Next glue the edging (F, H) to the top and bottom panels and the front of the divider. (The top and bottom use splines; the divider doesn't.) Then saw the ends flush with the ends of the plywood.

divider keys. Finally, keys (I) are needed to fasten the divider into the other panels (Figs. 1 & 6). Glue them to the top, bottom, and back of the divider.

door preparation. Before the cabinet can be glued together, the left side and the divider have to be prepared to install the door. The first step is to locate and bore holes for the W dowels that hold the door up when it's open (Fig. 7).

The door actually hangs on two glide pins (W dowels) that slide in the grooves already routed on the inside of the panels (Fig. 6). These grooves have to be extended into the front edging strip by notching out a small section with a chisel (Fig. 7).

assemble case. Now the cabinet can be assembled by joining the corners with the edging strips and splines.

After the cabinet is assembled, measure the opening to get the dimensions needed to make the door (Fig. S). For the door to swing freely, allow for a Vs" gap at the top, a '/i<i" gap at the bottom, and a V32" gap on each side. Then, subtract an additional V2'1 from the width and height for W'-thick trim strips that will be on the edges of the door.

trim strips. After cutting the plywood door to size, rip the trim strips and glue them onto the edges (Fig.!)).

glide pins. The door rides on pins that slide in the routed grooves. These pins are V4" dowels mounted in the side edges of the door (Fig.!)). (Don't glue in the dowels — they might have to be removed if the door needs trimming.)

install door To hang the door, begin by chamfering the front upper corner (Fig.!)). Then install the pull.

While holding the door in the compartment at an angle (Fig. 10), align the pins with the grooves and twist the door parallel with the front of the case.

support dowels. The last step in installing the door is putting in the dowels that hold it horizontal when it's open (Fig. 11). Begin by cutting two V2" dowels V2" long. Next drill a shank hole through the center. Then swing the door up and screw the dowels in place. (Note: Don't glue in the support dowels. You may want to replace the glide pins.)

FIRST: DRILL'// COUNTERBORE Vs" DEEP

SECOND: s

DRILL 3/32"-DIA. PILOT HOLE Vi" DEEP

NOTE:

for dowel hole detail, see fig. 7

key notch out with chisel to same depth as groove

FIRST: DRILL'// COUNTERBORE Vs" DEEP

SECOND: s

DRILL 3/32"-DIA. PILOT HOLE Vi" DEEP

front edging strip divider

plywood panel width equals this measurement minus 9/i6"

DIVIDER

DIVIDER

NOTE:

for dowel hole detail, see fig. 7

CROSS SECTION

•rill vie" shank hole

After the door is installed, the five drawers can be made. First, rip the drawer pieces (K, L, M, N) to width from V2" stock (Fig. 12). Then cut them to length. The front/back pieces are Vs" less than the width of the opening.

box joints. Now cut the box joint fingers on each piece (Fig. 13). (For more on box joints, see pages 90 to 93.)

grooves. Once the box joints are complete, grooves need to be cut in the drawer parts for the runners and bottoms. The critical part of positioning these grooves is making sure they remain invisible from the front.

Start by cutting -'/«"-wide grooves on the outside of the drawer's side pieces (L, N) to fit over the runners. These grooves should align with the second box joint slot from the bottom (Fig. 13).

The second set of grooves are cut on the inside of all the pieces for the VV hardboard bottom (P). To make sure these grooves are not visible from the front, align the dado blade with the bottom edge of the bottom slot (Fig. 13).

assembly. Now, the drawers can be assembled (see Shop Tip below). Then chisel out the finger that blocks the rear of the runner groove (Fig. lJt). And fill the void in the sides (created by the bottom groove) with wood putty.

cleats. The last step is to screw two cleats to the bottom of the cabinet. These prevent the cabinet from sliding off the stretchers (Fig. 17).

SKM? TTOP

Clamping dlocke

To apply pressure only on the fingers of a box joint, make special clamping blocks. I use the box joint jig to make these blocks.

SMALL DRAWER SIDE SIX PIECES

193/4

LARGE DRAWER SIDE FOUR PIECES

NOTE: ALL DRAWER STOCK '/2" THICK

3V4 i

SMALL DRAWER FRONT/BACK SIX PIECES

LARGE DRAWER FRONT/BACK FOUR PIECES

EDGE

SMALL DRAWER

DEPTH EQUALS THICKNESS OF STOCK

Vs" x DP DRAWER RUNNER GROOVE

^Vs y4"x Va" GROOVE Vs" FROM BOTTOM EDGE

SMALL DRAWER

DEPTH EQUALS THICKNESS OF STOCK

Vs" x DP DRAWER RUNNER GROOVE

EDGE

y4"x Va" GROOVE Vs" FROM BOTTOM EDGE

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Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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